I might just be falling out of love with Mumtaz. I’ve been a
big fan since my first visit to the original Bradford restaurant 7 or
8 years ago, and have never been disappointed with a meal there or in the Leeds
branch.
Not everything they produce is quite so good though. The
supermarket ready meals are a mixed bag (although still better than virtually
all the store own branded versions) and I’ve had poor food from the Jaldi Jaldi
takeaway outlets. There were just a few signs in our Bradford meal over the
weekend that all might not be well in mothership of the empire either.
That’s not to say we weren’t well fed though. Some things
were very good, like they always have been. The pickle tray has always been a
cut above, and still is. The tamarind chutney is gooey and tangy and lovely,
there are two varieties of raita both made with proper, thick yoghurt and the
lime pickle is fierce. What the hell the cheap pitted black olives are doing
there I have no idea but I’m willing to overlook them as a foolish mistake.
A piece of chicken tikka on the bone was even hotter than
the lime pickle, surprising but not in a bad way. The heat was tempered by
lovely bits of charred marinade, singing with ginger, encasing still tender
meat.
It was the curries that let the side down a bit. Both a
karahi lamb and a karahi channa tasted a bit mass-produced, a bit like
commodity curries made in bulk from a base paste. I could be completely wide of
the mark but I have a sneaking suspicion they pre-cook everything in the same
kitchen that supplies those ready meals and takeaways.
If I’m right then they still scrub up well after being fried
in a good splash of ghee with extra ginger, garlic and coriander. I was merrily
scooping away with my roti for ages. Something was slightly lacking though,
they didn’t have that vibrancy and depth of flavour I seem to recall from
visits past.
Back to the usual high standard with the bread though, each
tandoori roti costing 85p a pop was thin, beautifully crisped and absolutely
bloody enormous. They know how to cook rice too.
I haven’t fallen out of love with Mumtaz yet, and I hope
they don’t give me cause to. A visit here is always a pleasure, the huge,
bling, marble clad restaurant is an experience in itself and I like the
atmosphere, lively with the chatter of families rather than the clatter of the
booze-fuelled. That lack of booze also makes it nigh on impossible to spend
over fifteen quid a head. We paid £28 including a tip.
7/10
Great Horton Road
Bradford
BD7 3HS
2 comments:
I have been to both the Leeds and Bradford one (although not the Leeds one for a couple of years). In the Bradford one everything turned out to be almost burn-your-face-off-spicy. Having the Pudsey Midpoint Aagrah's just a short drive away from our house we've been a few times and it's way better quality curries and the pickle tray just as good!
Never quite sure where I am with the Aagrah's. I've had really good meals at the one in Leeds by the BBC but crap in Wakefield and Denby Dale. Pudsey must be a good 'un.
Post a Comment